The last four days I've been in Artsakh, or Nagorno-Karabakh, which is a technically independent region in the South of Armenia and one that has been in conflict with neighboring Azerbaijan. It is a beautiful area - rolling green hills, whole fields of poppies and canola - it reminded me of Tuscany.
Also like Tuscany, the people seem incredibly open and warm. Even though many of them don't have plumbing or even water, they open their home and their hearts to visitors. We had several meals in the homes of villagers, and as always, there was an amazing spread - but also rounds and rounds of vodka toasts. Especially since this weekend was a memorial of the recent war in the region, the vodka flowed. It was touching hearing old men and soldiers giving these incredibly poetic and raw speeches about their love of the land and their appreciation of our coming. While much of the area is extremely poor and still devastated by the war (physically, emotionally, financially), the people take great pride in the region, and the fact that they were able to defend it from Azerbaijan.
Since the war is still so much a presence (there is actually a ceasefire, which Azerbaijan is said to violate routinely, but no actual peace treaty) and also because this was a memorial weekend, war was very much a part of the entire trip. We had the opportunity to meet with soldiers in the trenches quite close to the border, to watch some documentary films on the war, and to talk with many people who fought and lived through that time. Evidence is everywhere - whole towns near the border are completely destroyed. So while I understand the nationalism (which is felt throughout all of Armenia), it felt uncomfortable at times. I just think in any place there is a fine line between nationalism, love of country and what can start to border on militarism and xenophobia.
I also find the gender dynamics interesting in the context of conflict. In many countries conflict and political upheaval can transform gender norms and give women new opportunities. Women frequently make political and social gains in transitional societies. Here, it seems the opposite, perhaps because there is an ongoing threat. Traditional models of masculinity often prevail when national security is the main issue. I thought it was interesting that the symbol of Artsakh is a large statue of a woman and man's heads planted in the ground - the land itself is meant to symbolize their bodies and souls ("We are our mountains.") It's a beautiful monument. But it's also noteworthy that the woman statue has her mouth covered - it almost appears that she is gagged - to show that women are not meant to speak, out of respect.
The whole trip was quite an experience. Busy, exhausting, and dirty, but incredible. We met the prime minister of Artsakh, did some intense hiking and spelunking (I have always wanted to say that!) in caves with millions of bats, saw beautiful churches, amazing night skies, the Armenian Stonehenge, played basketball with school children, and a thousand other things. One of my favorite moments was at the school we visited - I was standing by a little girl who was watching the basketball game with an envious look. Since there were little boys playing her size, I figured she could hold her own, so I asked if she wanted to join in. She hesitated a moment, then said: "Give me a bandana. I want in." She was the feistiest player on the court.Life back in Yerevan is good too. I continued strategic planning this week with the Women's Resource Center, which has been fun and so interesting. This organization is really amazing - I can't believe how much they do, and with the budget they have. I am looking forward to finding ways to continue to work with them - have even mulled over the idea of coming back and maybe doing a documentary on them.
Meeting with civic activists tonight, yoga, and then much needed sleep.
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